"Wicked Good" Racing's

Specifications For Building/Restoring,

And Racing Our Vintage Stock Cars

As adopted

2007

Printing - July 2007

Specific "Guidelines" by Racing Class

"Early Stocks"

The intent of this class/division is to provide a base level of vintage stock car racing which closely models the factory stock open-wheeled "Bomber" and slightly modified "Stock" classes of the 1950's; both of which began the stock car racing phenomenon here in Maine.

Bodies

2. Bodies must retain their stock configuration and be located in their normal position.

3. Bodies must be securely fastened to the frame or roll cage.

4. Rear window opening may be enlarged for visibility.

5. Body/Chassis may be "bobtailed" to the spring mount.

6. Rear wheels must center in rear wheel well, +/- 1 inch

7. Door panels should not be cut down to the point of endangering the driver. "Turret" tops or open roofs should be covered
    with sheet metal; securely fastened.

Front Axle/Suspension

    a.  heating of springs

5. Jacking bolts or devices are allowed

Engines - goal of 100 to 150 hp.

2. Engines shall remain in original factory location.

3. Carburetion shall remain stock - 1 single barrel for 6 cylinders, 1 two barrel for 8 cylinders

4. Camshafts shall remain stock

5. Homemade headers/exhaust are acceptable

6. Ignition must remain stock

8. Allowable engines:

Ford - any flathead up to 239/255

Transmission/Clutch/Flywheel

2. Lightweight flywheels allowed on any engine above which is allowed dual carburetors

Tires/Wheels

2. Wheels may be reversed or "built-out" (offset) to edge of rim

3. Ford wide five wheel or safety hub may be adapted to any corner, in any secure manner

4. Maximum tire tread width is 8 inches

5. Any circumference tire may be used - these will serve as a "poor man's" quick change.

2. Bodies may be significantly altered/sectioned/channeled/relocated in any safe manner. Stock configuration bodies are allowed.

3. Door panels should not be cut down to the point of exposing driver to increased danger. "Turret" tops or open roofs should
be covered by sheet metal; and securely fastened.

Chassis

2. Permitted modifications:

a. heating of springs

b. heavy duty OEM coil springs may be substituted in original a-frame front ends. Coil spring spacers may be used - no
racing coils permitted.

c. number of spring leafs may be changed

d. any stock solid front axle assembly w/leaf springs may be substituted in place of an original coil spring suspension.
Coil springs cannot be substituted for a solid axle.

e. Ford transverse springs may have one shackle "locked" in position to prevent side sway

f. shackle length may be changed

g. camber/caster may be changed

h. frames may be reinforced, so long as stock configuration is retained

j. wheels may be reinforced, or 3/4 ton safety hubs utilized

k. up to two stock factory issue shocks of any configuration per wheel. or one racing shock

l. jacking bolts or devices are allowed

Rear Axle/Suspension

2. Open driveshafts may be substituted for enclosed drivelines, and vice versa.

3. Quick change rear ends may be used, so long as owner/driver truthfully shares overall ratio information with any competitor asking for that information.

4. Rear ends may be locked

5. Up to two stock factory issue shocks of any configuration, per wheel; or one racing shock

6. Jacking bolts or devices are allowed

Engines - goal of 175 to 210 hp.

a. Dual carburetors are allowed on these engines.

b. Pretty much a "Run whatcha brung" for these engines

2. Any STOCK OHV V-8 engines with a single carburetor will be allowed, up to the following limits:

Ford - up to 312 cubic inch

GM - up to 307 cubic inch

Chrysler - up to 318 cubic inch

Ford - 300 with EITHER dual single barrels OR racing cam only

GM - 292 with EITHER dual single barrels OR racing cam only

Hudson - 308 w/factory 2 two barrels and racing cam only

Buick - 320 w/factory 2 two barrels & racing cam

4. Engine may be relocated (set-back & offset)

5. Exhaust headers are allowed

Transmission/Clutch/Flywheel

1. Any factory stock 3 or 4 speed or automatic is allowed

Tires/Wheels

2. Stock steel wheels may be reversed or offset to edge of rim

4. Maximum tire tread width is 12 inches

5. Any circumference tire may be used ? these will function as a "poor man's" quick change?

8. 3/4 ton hubs allowed on any corner

It is the intent of this class/division to provide for a base level of stock car racing which closely models the factory stock "WIDE BODY" cars first manufactured in the early 1950's, and appearing on Maine race tracks in the early to mid 1960's.

2. Bodies must be stock configuration, and in stock positions

3. Door panels should not be cut down to the point of exposing driver to increased danger

Chassis

1. Car frames 1949 thru 1965 are allowed

Front Suspension

1. Suspension shall remain stock for year and make of frame, except as follows:

2. Permitted modifications:

a. heating of springs

b. heavy duty OEM coil springs may be substituted . Coil spring spacers may be used - no racing coils or coil-overs

c. Caster/Camber may be changed

d. Wheels may be reinforced, or 3/4 ton safety hubs utilized

e. Up to two stock factory issue shocks per wheel, or one racing shock

f. jacking bolts or devices allowed

Rear Suspension

1. Any factory production rear axle may be used, so long as stock rear suspension is retained

2. Rear ends may be locked

3. Up to two stock factory issue shocks per wheel, or one racing shock

4. Jacking bolts or devices allowed

1. Any full race version of those engines permitted in "Early Stocks" is allowed

a. Dual carburetors are allowed on these engines

b. Pretty much a "Run whatcha brung" for these engines

2. Any STOCK OHV V-8 engines with one stock carburetor will be allowed, up to the following limits:

Ford - up to 312 cubic inch

GM - up to 307 cubic inch

Chrysler - up to 318 cubic inch

AMC - up to 304 cubic inch

3. Additional stock in-lines allowed

Ford - 300 with either dual single barrels OR racing cam only

GM - 292 with either dual single barrels OR racing cam only

Hudson - 308 w/factory 2 two barrel setup and racing cam only

Buick - 320 w/factory 2 two barrel setup and racing cam

4. Exhaust headers are allowed

Transmission/Clutch/Flywheel

1. Any factory stock 3 or 4 speed or automatic allowed

3. Lightweight flywheels are allowed on any engine above which is allowed dual carburetors

Tires/Wheels

1. Wheels up to 8 inch width are acceptable, with up to 12 inch on right front

2. Stock steel wheels may be reversed or offset

3. Ford wide five or safety hub may be adapted to the right front corner, in any secure manner

4. Maximum tire tread width is 8 inches; 12 on right front

5. Any circumference tire may be used

7. Racing slick allowed on right front - standard DOT street tires only on other three corners

8. 3 /4 ton hubs are allowed on any corner

General Safety Considerations, etc.

 (All Classes)

Miscellaneous

2. All glass must be removed with exception of the windshield, which can be replaced with lexan or screening. All windshield
     components must be securely fastened top, bottom, and both sides.

3. Doors need to be welded, bolted, or strapped shut during racing activities, in such a manner that will assure that the doors
     will remain in the closed position in any racing incident.  Pre-1937 cars with fabric (turret) tops should cover that section
     of roof  with sheet metal, properly secured. It is tough to explain how you fell out of a vintage race car in the 21^st century.

4. All sharp edges and protrusions which could injure the driver or anyone else should be removed or protected.

5. Master electrical disconnects and fuel shutoffs are recommended, and should be placed within reach of the driver and
    rescue crews.  These should be conspicuously visible and clearly identified

6. For safety's sake, Mothers-in-law are not allowed to ride in the back seat.  However, they may occasionally make effective
    hood ornaments.

A "six (6) point" roll cage of standard .095 x 1 3/4 roll cage tubing OR 1 1/2" black iron pipe should be the minimum cage being considered. In the case of a rebuilt "original" car, the original "roll cage" could be retained and expanded upon, so long as the completed cage assembly meets the intent of this section.

The four (4) uprights and the two (2) rear braces should be securely welded to the vehicle frame structure. On damaged frames, this might require load distribution plates of no less than 3/16" plate steel welded directly to the frame.

The main cage structure must be stabilized side-to-side by at least one diagonal brace attached to the uprights immediately behind the driver.  The cage structure should be stabilized front-to-rear by single braces running from the top of the main cage down and back to the rear frame "kickups", as close to 45 degrees as frame and body configuration allow.

There shall be at least one (1) dashboard level cross bar between the two forward vertical uprights.

There should be no less than three (3) horizontal door bars on the driver's side, and 2 on the passenger's side.  Early Modifieds in which the body has been narrowed may require 3 door bars each side to adequately protect the driver.

It is recommended that there be at least one roof bar installed due to the unreinforced sheet metal roof area, AND that additional crash protection be provided UNDER the driver, as well.  Both areas are quite vulnerable when hit hard by a moving race car.

All roll cage welds should be of quality, demonstrating adequate penetration.  Each connection should be welded completely

around the circumference of the tube, if at all possible. Gussets should be employed in stress areas of weakness. No holes should be drilled in .095 roll cage tubing; and no holes larger than 1/4 inch in iron pipe bars.  Any such holes should be kept to an absolute minimum.

Whereas many vintage race cars have, in the past, fallen victim to crash induced frame failure/collapse, particularly immediately ahead of the front body mounts, it is recommended that a front "hoop" be installed between the front cage (dash) uprights and the front radiator guard, and reinforced in such a manner as to create a "truss" structure of far greater strength.

Likewise, rear frame structures are particularly vulnerable to side impacts behind the rear wheels. Therefore, x-bracing of the rear frame rails is also recommended.

A roll cage bar can easily break an arm or leg in a relatively "soft" crash, so roll bar padding is recommended in those areas where driver impact may occur.

Steering wheel centers should be firmly padded.  Removable steering wheels can be a real advantage with modern racing seats,  particularly for those of us filling more of the seat than we did at age 16.

Belts/Harnesses

Lap belts must be angled down and to the rear at 45 to 60 degree angle to the ground, and as close to the hips as possible, to
be effective. Shoulder straps should be mounted just below shoulder level.

Seats

An aluminum or fiberglass (plastic) racing seat is much preferable to the old style "bucket" or truck "jump" seat often used in the early days. Fiberglass/plastic racing seats must be structurally reinforced, and will be inspected by the Safety/Rules Committee.

"Bucket" style passenger car or truck type seats can be considered so long as these seats are of substantial construction and side/rib supports should be provided. Such side supports must provide a flat surface to distribute side impact loads and prevent side-to-side movements during a crash, to be effective. This flat metal surface needs to be of sufficient size and location to substantially protect the driver's hip and rib area, and be well padded.

Seat backs (and any separate side supports) must be securely fastened to the roll cage, and include an integral or separatehead rest. All seats must be firmly attached directly to the frame/roll cage structure by no less than six (6) 3/8 inch grade eight bolts, or equivalent. One should NEVER attach a racing seat to the floorboard where it might easily come loose in a crash. If the  roll cage suddenly decides to vacate the vehicle, the ride is generally better if you go with it.

It is understood that no fuel storage system can be 100% safety in a racing situation.  If you should choose to use something other than the above described fuel cell, it must offer significant protection from rupture and release of fuel.

Approved non-bladder style racing fuel cells, either metal or plastic, are an alternative that may be given consideration.

Used in the past have been Beer Kegs, or 1/2 beer kegs; or similar heavy duty steel/stainless containers carefully converted for racing purposes, with a securely fastened filler cap that will not release in a violent crash. *

HEAVY DUTY WW II metal military "jerry cans" carefully converted for racing purposes with a securely fastening filler cap as above, have also been used.* Some of the new light duty aftermarket "jerry cans" are inadequate, and perhaps little better than an OEM tank. Thin walled tanks are very susceptible to tearing/rupturing in a crash.

Whatever is used, we should assure that connections are secure and protected from impact from any direction; and that the vent will not discharge fuel if and when we find ourselves upside down. There are inexpensive excess flow valves and rollover valves that can be incorporated in construction of your fuel tank, which will improve their safety.

In the 50?s we used to run up to 35 lap features and come no where near draining our 5 gallon fuel tank, so large quantities of  fuel, or large fuel cells are completely unnecessary for our purposes. Five or eight gallons is more than sufficient.

Firewalls/Floorpans

Brake Systems

Fire Extinguisher

Personal Protection

Skid Pan

Bumpers/Guards/Rubrails

It is recommended that open wheel cars run secure rub rails on both sides of the car to minimize the possibility of a race car becoming airborne. Open wheels will air launch quite effectively. The ends of rub rails should be rolled back to the frame, rather than end with sharp angles that can cut tires. Rub rails should not extend beyond the outside of the tires.

Cooling Systems

Paint/Lettering

Let us also not forget the character offered by the well earned bruises and scrapes of an authentic vintage racing car.  We should not be too quick to hide these blemishes from the fans, as they indeed "tell it like it is" when it comes to the early days of vintage dirt trackin'.  They are real, and they are HONEST!.

Yet there are things we can do that will make a race car spray painted with a Windex bottle in the barnyard during a hurricane look really good from a short distance away.  Simple paintbrush work such as painting the frame, roll cage tubing, the firewalls, the floorboards, the wheels and the hubs, and bumpers, will really perk up even a marginal paint job. (Great work for the kids!)  Painting the radiator black and the engine a near original color with a spray can or two and this baby really starts to be looking good! Top it off with some stylized numbers and a few racing decals, and we have a hot ride. This is a case of using that good 'ol Maine ingenuity, rather than those harder to come by Maine dollars.

Many of the younger folk in our audience will not have the foggiest idea of what make or year your car is.  It has been suggested that we make it a policy to note the year, make, and powerplant, right on the car for everyone to see. We have accessed some pretty nice decals on Ebay that accomplish this very well, at very reasonable prices. Hand lettering or stick-on letters from the hardware store can look pretty sharp while getting the job done also. However, they often add up to more than the prepared decals available over the internet.

If your race car is an authentic racer from long ago, it will also look good to state when and where the car "earned its wings", i.e. "This car raced at Exeter & Unity in the 50's !

 "Wicked Good" is a Maine based vintage stock car RACING "club", which is organized specifically to perpetuate vintage stock car racing as it was in the very beginning within the State of Maine. True, there have been many styles, designs, and classes of Maine stock cars since the very first in 1949, and what we each grew up with is "our" vintage car.  However, attempting to successfully incorporate all classes that are 25 - 30 years old and older, becomes something of a monumental task, and most likely an impossibility to manage within one volunteer organization.  Yet each vintage era is as valid as the next, and we would each like to be racing our own cars again.   "Wicked Good", however, like any organization, cannot be everything to everyone and limits must be determined and defined, if we are to be successful.   Luckily, there are several other "vintage" clubs that can readily accommodate race cars from the more recent eras.

The Rules you have just read, and the companion document(s) will provide us with direction and guidance in our travels. The concepts behind their development are intended to assist us in building "new" race cars; and rebuilding original race cars; for on-track competitive activities, as well as assure that all participants find it to be a rewarding experience.

We believe that these concepts will:

- Promote the excitement and history of stock car auto racing as it was in the State of Maine in the 1950's & early 1960's,  while maximizing the fun factor for competitors, families, and audiences alike.

- Equalize competition within each class in such a way so as to provide exciting, enjoyable, and affordable racing activities in which each competitor will feel they have been fairly treated.

- Promote the utilization of vintage powerplants, chassis, suspensions, and drivelines; while recognizing that we are now racing 50 years "into the future".

- Take reasonable advantage of modern safety equipment and design technology which may be applicable to our form of racing.

A significant effort has been made to define three classes of race car which will allow for reasonably equal competition within each class.  We believe that this set of guidelines fosters and promotes the use of original vintage powerplants of the specific era, while at the same time allowing for the use of later and more available engines. We do not wish to see a nearly completed vintage race car sitting in the barn, for want of a particular 60 year old engine. Why not enjoy racing it while you are searching for that authentic vintage engine, so long as the racing can be done in a fair and equitable fashion? We hope that this "adjustment" will maintain reasonable equality in competition while making vintage racing a little easier and more available to everyone. However, by the book, these later engines appear to significantly "outclass" the vintage engines.  Should that turn out to be the case, we may be forced to reconsider use of these "out-of-era" engines, in favor of the correct vintage engines only. On the other hand, the "old" & "outdated" vintage engines have been known to surprise competitors with their capability on a race track, so we will give this concept a try to see how well it works. 

While it is nice to have Ford components in a Ford, Chevy in a Chevy, etc., it probably makes no real difference in the end whether you have a flathead in a Chevy, or vice versa, so long as the powerplants are roughly equivalent.  We can't see why a person with a good 235 Chevy sitting in his barn, and a good Plymouth coupe stock car sitting behind it, has to leave both at home when he goes to the vintage races.  Should those parts be combined,  the car will still be of vintage components, and its basic performance unaltered to any degree.  Can someone have fun in a vintage Chevy powered Mopar?  Come on down !   

Out of Class Performance

One of the ways we keep it fun for everyone, is to adopt an "Anyone can win on any given day" philosophy. There are several complex ways of dealing with the race car that effectively dominates its class and relegates most others to "also rans", who then begin to wonder "WHY BOTHER"?  Teardowns, frequent inspections, rules changes, etc. become something of a drag for everyone, and some of the fun goes away with each incident.  We will begin by taking a different approach to that dominant car that threatens the equality of competition we desire.

Payoff

All vintage race cars are expected to remain true to the spirit of the era and class/division they represent, whether written in the "rules" or not. It is the intent of this Association to provide legitimate racing action by authentic representations of period race cars. Anything less than this is historically incorrect, our credibility suffers, and members suffer. We do not wish in any way to compromise the integrity of our Association, and the vintage racing it wishes to represent.

However, the reality is, that we are racing decades ago, in the 21^st century !  Success at fielding our vintage race cars also depends heavily on our ability to afford them.  So compromise is inevitable.  Every reasonable attempt has been made to minimize the cost of race cars in each class, by hovering as closely as possible to stock components and configurations.  For the most part, racing or aftermarket speed parts are rarely encouraged or allowed in any of the classes, and then only as an equalizer for certain vintage powerplants.

As you review these guidelines, consider that your Association desires above all else to provide a forum for weekend hobby level vintage racing, with safety and fun for all as its primary goals, while doing our very best to assure that costs of our vintage stock car racing are kept to a minimum. It is further our intent to maintain our Association as a valid VINTAGE racing club, and to avoid any vintage class or race car that IN ANY WAY leads us toward or sets us up for a class of car that allows the running of modern machinery with a vintage body stuck on top of it. This alone has brought about the demise of several other vintage racing associations across the nation, and we do not wish to pay that price. There are sufficient other racing Associations that already do that quite well, and we are not it.

The 90% Philosophy

Several vintage racing associations around the country have adopted a concept they call 90% racing. This concept is a little hard to put into meaningful words, but the 90% racing philosophy encourages active competitive racing action tempered by good judgment, respect for each other, fair play, and recognition that each of our vintage race cars are just that - a VINTAGE race car - which must be reasonably cared for.  It means that if there is any question about your next move, don't do it ! -  wait until the next lap, or next race date, or next year.  It means that honest racing by the rules will bring sufficient racing incidents and crashes without asking for it, and that overly aggressive driving will not be appreciated.  It means that going all out to gain that "one more position" is simply not worth several guys taking home wrecks, or losing the respect of other members.  Let us not forget that each vintage race car remaining on the race track increases the odds that we will have a place to race our own vintage racer NEXT year!  An active 90% racing philosophy within the Association and within each of us might offer us the best of both worlds.

Tech Team

Unless otherwise established, three members of the rules committee will be designated each race date as the "Tech Team" for that specific race day?s activities. This "Tech Team" will have the authority and responsibility to inspect each vintage race car, and to make reasonable and appropriate judgments as to compliance with Association guidelines, and their intent; and address any safety related issues.

Participation of non-conforming race cars:

Whereas these guidelines cannot be expected to foresee nor address all possible configurations of vintage race cars, there will be times when our basic established goals, principles, and philosophies will need to be applied in order to determine an appropriate action. From time to time we will have visitors or otherwise encounter a vintage race car that does not conform to the specific rules we have established for on-track competition. Having a collective desire to welcome visitors and guests, requires a timely and reasonable decision as to whether or not a non-conforming car can compete, and under what conditions and/or restrictions.

In the instance of a first appearance, the "Tech Team" for that particular race date shall be empowered to consider all factors, especially safety issues, and determine whether or not competition should be allowed and what conditions might apply. In the instance of a desire for regular participation, this power could be extended up to a total of 4 weeks. Any request for regular participation in racing events by a non-conforming race car, beyond the 4 weeks, shall become the responsibility of the Board of Directors.